From the Alpaca to your Back'a --
Step One . . . Shearing .
Our alpacas get sheared every year in May. Trying to keep them dry and clean of any debris is a challenge prior to the shearing. The cleaner they are, the less cleaning that has to be done to the fiber during the process of making yarn. My wife and I help with the alpacas/llamas during the shearing.
The alpacas are sheared according to color: all of the whites, then the browns, etc. This is so we do not get the colors mixed up while collecting the fiber.
The blanket fiber is what is worth the most money. It is basically from the shoulders to the hips and from the upper ribs. Basically what a horse blanket would cover if they were a horse/pony. The neck and leg fiber called seconds and belly fiber (sometimes called thirds). The neck and leg fiber is usually much shorter than the blanket.
Depending on the alpaca the blanket fiber straight from the alpaca is worth $40 to $60 or the yarn from the same alpaca is worth $4 to $8 per ounce. The yarn is usually made into skeins of greater than two to four ounces (2.2 oz etc.).
During the shearing we (usually my wife) puts the fiber into bags, the blanket goes into a bag of its own and the neck and leg fiber into a bag. Usually only the llama fiber goes into the grain bags because it isn't worth as much as the alpaca fiber. A lot of people use plastic bags to store/ship the fiber in. We use cardboard boxes because it will not condensate and will help take moisture off of the fiber that is already in it.
Moths and mold are two bad ways to loose a whole years of fiber. If, per chance, the alpaca/llamas are wet at shearing time the fiber has to be dried before storing it.
The alpacas are sheared according to color: all of the whites, then the browns, etc. This is so we do not get the colors mixed up while collecting the fiber.
The blanket fiber is what is worth the most money. It is basically from the shoulders to the hips and from the upper ribs. Basically what a horse blanket would cover if they were a horse/pony. The neck and leg fiber called seconds and belly fiber (sometimes called thirds). The neck and leg fiber is usually much shorter than the blanket.
Depending on the alpaca the blanket fiber straight from the alpaca is worth $40 to $60 or the yarn from the same alpaca is worth $4 to $8 per ounce. The yarn is usually made into skeins of greater than two to four ounces (2.2 oz etc.).
During the shearing we (usually my wife) puts the fiber into bags, the blanket goes into a bag of its own and the neck and leg fiber into a bag. Usually only the llama fiber goes into the grain bags because it isn't worth as much as the alpaca fiber. A lot of people use plastic bags to store/ship the fiber in. We use cardboard boxes because it will not condensate and will help take moisture off of the fiber that is already in it.
Moths and mold are two bad ways to loose a whole years of fiber. If, per chance, the alpaca/llamas are wet at shearing time the fiber has to be dried before storing it.
Step 2 . . . Skirting the Fiber .
First the fiber is taken out of the bag and skirted. This is usually done on a skirting table. They can of course be bought but I make my own. It is basically a table with one inch mesh webbing (I use chicken wire) for a bottom. You put the fiber on the skirting table and basically move it around. The goal is to get any debris (such as hay, small pieces of fiber that are smaller than an inch or so, leaves, etc.) to fall to the bottom. You have to help by manually picking debris out from the top as it will not all fall out of the bottom and no matter what you do you will NOT get all of it. When you buy alpaca yarn you will usually find small pieces of hayseed in the yarn. Not a lot, but it will be there. Believe it or not this actually adds to the value of the yarn. Alpaca/Llama clothing is the same. It is nothing to be standing by a friend and have them reach out and pick a tiny piece of hayseed off of your sweater, scarf, etc.
Step 3 . . . Washing .
After the skirting the fiber gets washed. A small operation like this one uses a deep sink in the garage. One blanket of fiber to a sink. You use less than a quarter of a cup of "the original Dawn dish washing detergent" to a sink. You use the hottest water that your hot water heater can provide when doing this. The reason for using the original Dawn is because it is good at cutting/cleaning dirt and has no chemicals to hurt the fiber. Some soaps have moisturizers and this is not good for the fiber. After the water has started to cool drain the water. Push down on the fiber to get the excess water out and then fill the sink with hot water to rise the fiber (more than one rinse may be required). After completing the process the you push all of the water you can out of the fiber. Some people wrap it in a towel and push the water out. DO NOT ROLL it in the towel because it will most likely get very matted.
Step 4 . . . Drying .
Now take the fiber and put it on your drying rack/skirting table. You can fluff the fiber up so that it can breath and let the air circulate through it. A front/back porch with a nice breeze works nicely for this. So far the birds and squirrels have not seen fit to steel any of the fiber while doing this so it works nicely for us. Do not use a clothes dryer. Your fiber will probably come out in one big clump and be worthless.
Step 5 . . . Carding the Fiber.
Now that the easy part is over, it is time to start making the fiber usable. The fiber now has to be carded. I have heard of experienced spinners using uncarded fiber to spin with, but it is not very common and I am sure not easy to do. There are many different types and manufactures of drum carders. A manual drum carder costs about $400 for an inexpensive one and the prices go straight up from there. The electric ones start around $1,250 or so and go up.
The carder basically takes the fiber and faces all of the fiber in one direction. This makes it easy to work with. The fibers should be about two inches long so that when they are spun together into yarn it will not pull apart. Carding takes quite a bit of time.
The carder basically takes the fiber and faces all of the fiber in one direction. This makes it easy to work with. The fibers should be about two inches long so that when they are spun together into yarn it will not pull apart. Carding takes quite a bit of time.
Step 6 . . . Spinning the Fiber Into Yarn.
After the fiber has been carded into bats it is ready to be spun into yarn. There are many different types of spinning wheels. I have not yet learned to use the spinning wheel. I tried. I did not even come close to being bad let lone good at it. So, I found someone who had the time and the will to learn. My mother's neighbor Nancy Caudle has learned how to use the spinning wheel. Although she has been doing it for less than a year, she has gotten pretty good at it. Lorraine has wanted to learn how to use the spinning wheel from the start but she has a job away from the farm and being so far out from people it is difficult for her to get someone to teach her, But she will soon I have no doubt. Spinning takes a lot of hand, eye and foot coordination. From what I am told, learning can be quite difficult but, once you have learned to do it, it is relaxing.
Commercial Fiber Processing Versus Doing It Yourself.
There are several Fiber Mills around the country that process fiber. You can ship it to them and have it made into yarn or just go as far as having it carded and spin it yourself. Shipping is a big expense when you do this. Generally speaking "homespun" yarn sells for more than machine spun yarn. Even though the homespun is not as consistent as the machine spun people just like it much more. I have spoken with quite a few people that sell all of their homespun yarn at shows, but do not sell an equal amount of machine spun
